Portugal: Kayaking and Culture on the Douro River

At Explorers’ Corner, we take pride in sharing with our guests some of the world’s most unique places, well off the usual tourist paths. That’s certainly the case with this exclusive soft adventure in one of Europe’s ‘secret’ travel destinations: the Douro River Valley in northern Portugal.

We’ve spent nearly a decade refining this joyful journey with our Portuguese friends who have long-term relationships with wine-farming families along the Douro River. This trip is a rare opportunity for us to share our warm personal connections with these special people, offering an inside encounter with contemporary rural life in Portugal – not to mention fantastic local food and wine!

This trip combines fun and exercise between stays in one fabulous wine farm (quinta) after another. There are also plenty of opportunities for long hikes in addition to low-key paddling. The vistas from the high hills, with the sun glinting gold on the river and the vineyards rolling down like a green blanket to the water’s edge, are absolutely glorious.

The local port, wine and superb Portuguese meals are the perfect complement to our physical activities. However, the heart of this adventure is the hospitality of the Portuguese families who warmly receive us in their quintas. We are regaled with stories of their craft and deep ancestral roots, steeped in the “Old World tradition” that still lingers along the banks of the Douro River.

There’s no better way to enjoy this mellow, scenic region than from the comfortable seat of a kayak, paddling quietly downstream, or walking through the verdant hillsides and vineyards above. Just imagine picking juicy Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela or Touriga Nacional grapes off the vine from the seat of your kayak as you float down a glassy river. Life doesn’t get much better than this.

Our adventure begins on a charming train that travels up the river valley from Oporto. We arrive at the end of the line at the medieval town of Moncorvo. Here, we overnight at a family farm (called a quinta), whose buildings date to the late 18th century. In the evening we wind down and sample traditional regional cuisine as prepared by the family, delicacies such as saffron duck rice, sheep cheese and homemade honey, accompanied by a few bottles of wine from our host’s private stock.

The next days on the Douro River are spent paddling leisurely, passing through a gorge where ancient, unused terraces and walls indicate the toil of forgotten times. We may encounter an occasional shepherd, and, if we’re lucky, a pair of fish eagles who favor the solitude of this place. There will be plenty of opportunities for day hikes (offered as an option for those who want more exercise) along the river or in the hilly vineyard terrain of the surrounding mountains.

Our route takes us downriver from Bruco to Barca D’Alva to Senhora Ribeira and then on to the towns of Tua and Pinhão. Each evening we will enjoy the fine wine and delicious food prepared by our hosts at the hospitable quintas. At the lavish 18th-century manor house of Casal de Loivos, each of our bedrooms opens onto a grand terrace with the full glory of the Douro spread out below. A private tour of this beautiful quinta with our host is a prelude to a special wine tasting. Leaving Casal de Loivos, we paddle to Pinhão to our final take-out and a leisurely drive back to Oporto. That evening, we will celebrate the fabulous memories we’ve made during our farewell dinner at the excellent Hotel Infante de Sagres, dining together one last time on savory Portuguese fare as we reflect on the Old European wonders we’ve experienced.