Canada: Hudson Bay

Our friends in Canada’s far North Country, on the Arctic edge of Manitoba, have extended a special invitation for a small group of Explorers’ Corner travelers. Come with us to explore the boreal forest and tundra surrounding Hudson Bay, summer home to scores of species including Arctic hare, Arctic fox and even polar bear, who have come ashore from the melting ice till freeze-up happens again in autumn. Perhaps the most magical highlight of this trip happens offshore, however, as we paddle our kayaks among the tens of thousands of beluga whales that descend on Hudson Bay each year.

Our adventure begins in pristine boreal forest – the thick, slow-growing band of spruce, pine, birch and balsam poplar that encircles the subpolar region of the globe. Deep within the forest we guide our kayaks along the swift current of the South Knife River, pulling ashore at night to camp beneath the northern stars. When the sky is dark and clear enough, we may even witness the ethereal, shifting glow of the Aurora Borealis. There’s a palpable sense, as we glide among the riffles, engulfed in silence, that we are indeed on one of North America’s last truly wild and unspoiled rivers, traveling through territory where human population and presence are little changed since Europeans arrived on the continent.

Returning to Churchill, we spend our next few days discovering one of nature’s most enchanting creatures: the gentle, delightful white beluga whale. One of the largest concentrations in the world is resident on the west coast of Hudson Bay each summer, with some 60,000 congregating around the mouth of the Churchill River. A short kayak trip takes us into the midst of hundreds at a time, close enough for intimate encounters with these intelligent, amiable Arctic mammals. 

Beluga whales mass in the Churchill River estuary to feed on capelin and give birth to their four-foot long calves, who swim alongside their mothers. Keep your camera ever-ready to get some amazing shots as these friendly creatures swim right up to our gunwales! There’s also an option to don dry suits and snorkels to enter the river and meet these gentle mammals face to face – a travel memory not likely to fade any time soon!

No trip to the Canadian Arctic would not feel complete without a chance to see polar bears. We hope to sight them along a remote river system where we see bears during several visits each year. After a winter of gorging on ringed seal, these enormous ice bears – they are technically a marine mammal -- come to the bay to relax, fast and conserve energy during the brief northern summer, waiting for the ice to freeze and the hunt to commence again.

We’ll also enjoy some time to explore Churchill itself. It’s a hardy outpost town, just a few streets wide and several blocks long, but full of colorful history and friendly locals ready to regale us with stories of their distinctive lives here at the Arctic edge. In town we stay at the family-owned and operated Lazy Bear Lodge, a log cabin inn on the main street. Our hosts are excited to welcome us to their frontier town and enjoy sharing some of their local favorites in the dining room: we may be able to sample Arctic Char from the cold waters of Hudson Bay, or Manitoba bison pot roast, or caribou pepper steak (traditional American and vegetarian dishes are also available). 

Churchill and its environs offer an Arctic wilderness and wildlife adventure with few parallels in North America. The concentration of animals here, on land and sea and in the air, paired with the outpost hospitality of this rough-around-the-edges town, makes for a most unique summer vacation!

Trip Difficulty: This kayaking trip is rated novice to beginner.